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2 entries categorized "Les Canards du Vin"

September 05, 2007

Yeast On Steroids?

It’s harvest time in the Northern Hemisphere, and it will soon be asserted, far and wide, that one of the reasons alcohol levels are climbing faster than Bush’s poll ratings are dropping is that currently available commercial yeast strains yield more alcohol than their fungal ancestors did. Alas, this claim is widely wrong—at least within the reality-based winemaking paradigm.

The notion that modern (post-modern?) yeasts deliver more alcoholic bang for the Brix is another urban wine legend, something that could only be true if the laws of chemistry-as-we-know-it were repealed.  We know two basic things about yeasts: they are the only single-celled fungi; and what they do is convert sugar to alcohol, until they die off. More specifically, the yeastie beasties take one sugar molecule and turn it into two ethanol molecules, two carbon dioxide molecules, some heat and very small amounts of some other by-products. There’s only so much carbon in the sugar to redistribute into the new substances; all the yeast nutrient in the world can’t talk a yeast cell into making two and a half ethanol molecules, or three.

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August 11, 2007

Minerality Mumbo-Jumbo

Once a wine taster starts throwing the term “minerality” around, you know you’re dealing with a serious sipper. It’s not everyone who can pick up the echo of vineyard soils in a glass of wine, and the reason so many of us can’t taste that elusive minerality is simple: it isn’t there in the first place.

The term has been around forever and appears in a remarkable number of tasting notes, where it is always a term of high praise, not an indication of a defective, dirty wine. (I don’t know about you, but the last time Blind Muscat had a mouthful of wet gravel, it wasn’t pretty.) A recent piece in the New York Times magazine by food chemist Harold McGhee and chef Daniel (no relation) Patterson, “Talk Dirty to Me” (May 6,2007), took a major public swipe at the concept, giving visibility to a critique that has been around for some time (for example, my Wines & Vines piece in December, 2006.)

The problems with the perception of “minerality” are several:

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