Eric Asimov of the New York Times did an interesting profile of winemaker/wine provocateur Randall Grahm in print and online versions about a week ago, portraying the boy from Bonny Doon as a "new man" whose "new idea is to get small." After a stretch of years in which the Big House brand and the Pacific Rim Riesling venture rocketed production up to 450,000 cases, Grahm has spun off and sold whole lines of wine, dropped production to 35,000 cases, purchased new vineyard land in San Benito County near San Juan Bautista (appropriately, the town whose Mission was the setting for "Vertigo"), and focused back on the purist of original, distinctive, terroir-driven wines.
But Blind Muscat has learned there's a little more to this new phase. A modest project on the Franco-Swiss border, deep under the ground, far away from the prying eyes of the wine media and the TTB. Yes, the rumors are true: Randall Grahm is hoping to turn the 2008 Cigare Volant, now in barrel, into the world's first Big Bang wine by drenching it in super-charged elementary particles from the Large Hadron Collider.